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CARVING AND PAINTING
INSTRUCTION BY HUGH PARKS
http://www.FeathersInWood.com,
THE BASIC PATTERN FOR THE GRAY JAY, IS THE TOP AND SIDE
VIEW. I LIKE TO LEAVE EXTRA WOOD AROUND THE HEAD, SO I CAN CARVE IT IN THE
POSITION THAT I WANT |
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FIST STEP, SQUARE YOUR BLOCK
OF WOOD, BE DILIGENT WITH SQUARING THE BLOCK. WITH THE GRAIN FACING TOWARDS
THE TOP, MARK OUT THE PATTERN,AND BAND SAW IT TO SHAPE
I USE TEMPLATES DURING THE CARVING PROCESS, TO AID ME IN THE
PROPER SHAPES OF THE HEAD AND FEATHERS. DRAFTING OBJECTS WITH A RULER COMES
EASIER TO ME THAN DRAWING THEM FREEHAND. WHEN YOUR BAND SAWING, CUT OUTSIDE
THE PENCIL MARKS |
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THIS IS WHAT YOUR GRAY JAY
WILL LOOK LIKE, WHEN IT IS SAWN FROM THE BLOCK. USE A TEMPLATE TO MARK OUT
THE TOP OF THE HEAD PROFILE, GRIND OUT THE HEAD SHAPE AT THIS POINT,
MARK IN
A CENTER LINE, AND MAINTAIN THIS CENTER LINE THROUGH OUT THE CARVING
PROCESS. |
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IN THIS PHOTO THE HEAD AND
THE BODY HAVE BEEN ROUGHED OUT. REMEMBER TO CARVE TO THE ROUND. I LIKE TO
USE MY FOREDOM , WITH A COARSE CUTTING CUTTER FOR THIS. KEEP THE CENTER LINE
VISIBLE, MEASURING AND CHECKING THE SHAPE, HOLDING THE CARVING UP TO A
MIRROR, HELPS KEEP THE SHAPE UNIFORM. TAKE YOUR TIME WITH THE SHAPING, AS
ALL YOUR HARD WORK DETAILING WILL BE FOR NOTHING, IF YOUR BASIC ANATOMY ISN'T
CORRECT. |
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MEASURING FROM THE CENTERLINE, SQUARE
OFF THE BILL PROFILE, AND SHAPE THE HEAD A BIT MORE. AT THIS POINT IN THE
CARVING, YOU SHOULD BE USING A CARVING BIT THAT ISN'T QUITE AS COARSE AS THE
ROUGHING OUT CUTTER. A CARBIDE CUTTER DOSEN'T DISTURB THE WOOD AS
MUCH, AND LEAVES A SMOOTHER FINISH. A RULE OF THUMB WHEN CHOOSING A BIT TO
CARVE WITH, "USE A BIT THAT IS SHAPED LIKE THE CUT YOU WANT TO MAKE" SQUARE
CUT, USE A FLAT END BIT, ROUND OR TAPERED CUT, LIKE THE EDGE OF A FEATHER,
USE A BULL NOSE CUTTER. USING A SANDING
MANDREL WITH 80 GRIT SWISS SANDPAPER, I SMOOTH THE BODY, IN PREPARATION TO
START DETAILS OF THE BIRD |
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CAREFULLY TAPER THE
BILL, DON'T ROUND IT OFF JUST YET. MEASURE THE POSITION OF THE EYES FROM
THE
EDGE OF THE FOREHEAD. (NOT THE END OF THE BILL) CHECK YOUR REFERENCE AND
MAKE SURE OF THE POSITION OF THE EYE. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT
FEATURES OF THE CARVING. USING PENCILS ON EACH SIDE OF THE HEAD, CHECK
THE POSITION OF THE EYES TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE EXACTLY OPPOSITE |
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MEASURE FROM THE FOREHEAD OUT
TO CORRECTLY GET THE LENGTH OF THE BILL. SHAPE IT, PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR
REFERENCE, OR STUDY BILL. MARK IN EVERYTHING WITH A PENCIL BEFORE CARVING,
USE DARK LINES THAT YOU CAN CHECK AND RECHECK THE POSITION TO MAKE SURE THEY
ARE EQUAL. CARVE OUT THESE FEATURES USING A SMALL DIAMOND BALL IN YOUR MICRO
MOTOR. TURN YOU SPEED DOWN A LITTLE AND MAKE AN 1/8" GROOVE, THEN BLEND IN
THE EDGES |
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PAY STRICT ATTENTION TO YOUR
REFERENCE. MEASURE IN THE FEATHER GROUPS, THE MANTLE FIRST, THEN THE SIDE
POCKETS. THEN THE WING. THE REFERENCE SUPPLIED WILL GIVE YOU THE RIGHT
MEASUREMENTS. MEASURE FROM THE FRONT OF THE HEAD, BACK , AS THE HEAD IS
BASICALLY A FINISHED SHAPE NOW. |
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MAKE SMOOTH BLENDED
TRANSITIONS FROM ONE FEATHER GROUP TO ANOTHER. PENCIL IN THE FEATHERS AGAIN
AND AGAIN, THIS IS TO KEEP YOUR FEATHER GROUPS GOING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
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START SHAPING THE TAIL, DRAW
IN THE CENTER LINE ON THE EDGE. HOLD IT UP AND LOOK AT IT, MAKE SURE IT IS
IN THE POSITION YOU WOULD LIKE . THIN IT DOWN, FIRST SHAPING IT FROM
THE TOP. CHECK THE REFERENCE FOR THE NARROWEST PART OF THE TAIL WHERE IT
MEETS THE BODY. ROUND AND SHAPE THE END. FINISH AND STRAIGHTEN THE EDGES.
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I'VE STARTED TO CARVE THE
FEATHERS. THE TERTIALS AND PRIMARYS, ARE RELIEVED, CLEANED UP, SANDED AND
THEN SPRAYED WITH DENATURED ALCOHOL, TO RAISE THE GRAIN. THIS WILL HELP
TAKING OUT SMALL SCRATCHES AND HARDEN THE SURFACE OF THE WOOD. USE 220 GRIT
PAPER AND THEN 350 GRIT TO FINISH SANDING THE FEATHERS |
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START DETAILING THE HEAD,
PENCIL IN THE CHEEK LINES DRILL THE EYE HOLES TO EXACT SIZE, TAPER THE EDGES
OF THE HOLES SO YOU WILL HAVE A PLACE TO PUT THE EYE LID. |
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FEATHER THE HEAD, FEATHERS
ARE NOT ALL THE SAME SIZE, START SMALL AND THEY PROGRESS IN SIZE. WORK AT
THIS, DRAW AND REDRAW THE FEATHERS, TRYING NOT TO MAKE A FISH SCALE PATTERN.
LOOK TO YOUR REFERENCE. CARVE WHAT FEATHERS YOU ACTUALLY SEE, CARVE THEM IN,
NOT RELIEVING EVERY FEATHER. LOOK AT YOUR REFERENCE TO DETERMINE WHAT
FEATHERS SHOULD BE CARVED SEPARATELY. |
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STONE THESE FEATHERS, PENCIL
IN THE FLOW LINES, OR DIRECTION OF THE FEATHER FLOW. AND FOLLOW THAT WITH
YOUR STONING. |
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USE THE SAME METHOD TO LAY
OUT AND CARVE THE FEATHERS ON THE MANTLE. DON'T BE LAZY WITH THE FEATHERS,
BIRDS HAVE LOTS OF THEM, SO PUT THEM IN. AGAIN, PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR
REFERENCE. YOU SHOULD HAVE LOTS OF REFERENCE IN FRONT OF YOU, HANGING UP,
RIGHT THERE ALL THE TIME TO INSPIRE YOU. DON'T COPY ME
COPY
NATURE.!! |
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FEATHERS CLEANED UP, SANDED,
QUILLS PUT IN, USE YOUR BURNER ON ITS FLAT, DEPRESS THE WOOD SLIGHTLY AROUND
THE QUILL THAT YOU HAVE PENCILLED IN, THEN I USE A TAPERED FINE DIAMOND BIT
AND CLEAN UP AROUND THE QUILL, THEN USE FINE SANDPAPER TO ROUND THE QUILL
AND CLEAN UP THE BURNED PLACES. |
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DETAILING THE TAIL FEATHERS,
PUT IN A FEW RIPPLES WITH A DIAMOND BALL OR A BULL NOSE CUTTER. BLEND THE
EDGES. TAKE YOUR BURNING PEN, AND MAKE A LITTLE HOLLOW BETWEEN THE RIPPLES.
CLEAN UP THE BURNED AREAS WITH FINE SANDPAPER. I USE THE
RAZER TIP BURNING
SYSTEM. THEY SUPPLY A VARIETY OF BURNING TIPS, TO DO DIFFERENT JOBS |
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I DO SOME RELIEF UNDER THE
TAIL OF THE BIRD, BUT NOT DEEP. AGAIN, THE TAPERED DIAMOND BIT AND FINE
SANDPAPER TO CLEAN UP THE AREA. THIS IS A GOOD PLACE TO USE YOUR FEATHER
TEMPLATE, HELPS KEEP THE FEATHERS ALL THE SAME SHAPE. |
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THE BREAST AREA IS A LARGE
BASICALLY FLAT SURFACE, ADD CHARACTER TO THIS AREA WITH MUSCLE TONE, AGAIN,
PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR REFERENCE. I'VE RELIEVED THE CHIN SLIGHTLY, CUT
IN 1/8" GROOVES TO SHOW THE FEATHER GROUPS IN THE BREAST. I LIKE TO START
THIS PROCESS WITH A GROOVE IN THE MIDDLE, (CLEVAGE). WHEN CARVING
FEATHER GROUPS, OR ANYTHING ON THE BIRD, TRY TO INCORPORATE AN S CURVE.
CURVES ARE SO NICE, STRAIGHT LINES ARE BORING. |
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WITH THE SIDE POCKET DEFINED
AND THE FEATHERS DRAWN IN I RELIEVED SOME OF THE FEATHERS, USE THIS FINE
SANDING MANDREL TO CLEAN UP THE EDGES. REMEMBER TO SHAPE EACH FEATHER,
FEATHERS ARN'T FLAT THERE TENT SHAPED. |
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THE BREAST IS STONED AND
BURNED THE SAME AS THE REST OF THE BIRD, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE FLIGHT
FEATHERS.
I NEVER STONE THE FLIGHT FEATHERS, TERTIALS, WING
COVERTS, PRIMARY AND TAIL FEATHERS. THESE FEATHERS ARE STIFF AND HAVE A MORE
STRUCTURED CHARACTERISTIC. |
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USING MY RAZERTIP BURNER, WITH
THE SKEW TIP, I BURN AS COOL, AND CLOSE AS POSSIBLE. TRY TO PUT A
LITTLE CURVE IN YOUR BURNING LINE. CURVES ARE NICE!! |
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TAKE YOUR TIME WITH THE
BURNING, KEEP YOUR TIP CLEAN, AND BURN SLOWLY. YOUR LIGHT SOURCE SHOULD COME
FROM THE LEFT IF YOUR RIGHT HANDED. IF YOUR BURNING TOO HOT, YOUR BURNING
TOO DEEP AND YOUR LINES WILL BE TOO FAR APART. |
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BURNED & TEXTURED. EYE
LIDS HAVE BEEN PUT ON BY ROLLING OUT A SMALL PIECE OF KULIS KARVIT, AND
PUTTING IT AROUND THE EYE. I USE A SMALL FLAT DENTAL TOOL TO DO THIS, AND
ALL I CAN TELL YOU ABOUT THIS, PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. IT CAN BE
FRUSTRATING, BUT CHECK YOUR REFERENCE, AND CHECK AND RECHECK YOUR JOB FROM
SIDE TO SIDE. MAKE SURE THEIR THE SAME |
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I HAVEN'T SHOWN THIS STEP
CLEARLY ENOUGH, BUT IT IS STRAIGHT FORWARD. I USE TK SEALER,
NO
GESSO, USING
THREE COATS OF THE TK SEALER. ON THE BARE WOOD. THIS SEALS THE CARVING AND
IS AN EXCELLENT SURFACE TO PAINT ON. I USE A
LIGHT GREY MIXTURE, (NO1 GREY) ON THE GREY AREA, AND WHITE (NO 1WHITE) ON
THE WHITE. THE BREAST IS MIXTURE (NO 1 white) that has
been darkened with the grey mix. |
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NOTICE THAT THE BREAST IS A
LIGHT SHADE OF GREY. Put on the white feather tip with straight white on the
White area, and Use a little darker mix for the grey breast area. |
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MADE A MISTAKE AND DRILLED
THE HOLE FOR MOUNTING TOO FAR BACK. FIX IT LATER. PAINT ON
FEATHER TIPS USING STRAIGHT WHITE, OVER THE ENTIRE WHITE AREA. SEVERAL THIN
COATS WILL BE NEEDED . |
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PAINTING THE GREY FEATHERS,
BLEND THE EDGES WITH THE (NO 2 GREY) MIXTURE. WATER IN THE EDGES TO MAKE THE
TRANSITION SMOOTH FROM DARK TO LIGHT. PAINT YOUR QUILLS BLACK. DARKEN THE
SPLITS.
PAINT THE WHITE TIPS OF THE TAIL, USING THE (NO 1
WHITE) MIXTURE. PUT IN A WASH OF RAW SIENNA ALONG THE EDGE OF THE WHITE
WHERE IT MEETS THE GREY. |
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IT CREATES AN INTERESTING
EFFECT TO PUT IN A FEW LIGHTER GREY LINES ALONG SIDE THE SPLITS. THERE
STRESS LINES, THAT OCCUR NATURALLY WHEN A FEATHER IS SPLIT OR BROKEN. PAY
ATTENTION TO YOUR REFERENCE, AND PUT IN THE PRIMARY AND WING COVERT WHITE
MARKINGS. |
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THE GROOVES THAT YOU PUT IN
THE BREAST, DARKEN THEM WITH A LITTLE GREY, BLEND IT IN . DON'T BE IN A
HURRY, DARKEN THE BREAST FEATHER SPLITS AND JUST PLAY AROUND WITH THE
PAINTING. THIS IS AN AREA THAT IS PROMINENT ON THE SONG BIRD .AGAIN CHECK
YOUR REFERENCE. |
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YOU CAN DECIDE WHAT KIND OF
BASE TO PUT YOUR CARVING ON. ALTHOUGH I USUALLY DESIGN MY BASE FIRST.
SOMETHING THAT WONT TAKE AWAY FROM YOUR CARVING, BUT RATHER THE BASE SHOULD
PRESENT THE CARVING TO THE VIEWER. FOR THIS CARVING, I USED A PIECE OF
OAK, CUT IT TO ROUGHLY THE SHAPE OF THE PERCH, THE PERCH , WELL I JUST
STARTED THE GRINDER, AND TRIED TO COME UP WITH SOMETHING THAT I THOUGHT
WOULD BE ORIGINAL AND ADD A LITTLE CHARACTER TO MY PRESENTAION
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THE FINISHED CARVING.
THIS VERY FRIENDLY SCAVENGER. KNOWN AS THE CAMP ROBBER,
WHISKEY JACK, FORMERLY THE CANADA JAY. IS A FAVOURITE OF BIRD WATCHERS . HE
WILL OFTEN LIGHT ON YOUR HAND AND TAKE FOOD. GOOD LUCK CARVING, AND FEEL
FREE TO EMAIL ME IF YOU HAVE QUESTION |
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Shown in this photo, are the
Foredom Typhoon bits. Great bits for roughing out large amounts of wood. Be
careful with them, they bite. Carve your fingers as well as the wood,
protect your hands!!! Use
these or similar bits to rough out your carving. |
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In this photo, from top to
bottom, Foredom handpiece, with sanding mandrel.
Razertip burning pen , with
skew tip. Diamond bits, Bull nose , flame, carbide bull nose, (great),
tapered diamond, diamond ball, and thin diamond point. The handpiece
at the bottom , is the little Optima, old as the hills, has been a real work
horse. good service and cheap to maintain. Optima now has a new line of
Micro Motors.
Use these tools for the refining and detailing of your
carving.
One small hint, when your
carving detail, slow your micro motor down, too fast and your just clogging
and burning up you bit, and it is easier to control at low speed. |
| HUGH PARKS
woodduck@nb.sympatico.ca
http://www.FeathersInWood.com
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Phone: 506 755 3656 |
| Specifications for the Gray
Jay. |
Eye 7 mm brown
Distance Between the eyes 7/8"
Length of Bill 5/8" Bill from forehead out 5/l6"
Width of Bill 3/8"
length of Body 9 "
Length of wing3 5/8" End of tail to end of wing 2 5/8"
Length of Tail from end to Rump 3 1/4"
From front of body to end of mantle 3 1/4"
There are twelve tail feathers, show as many as will
look good on top, and put the rest underneath. |
| Painting the Gray Jay, should
be as simple as any bird you will paint. Basically it is grey and white.
No 1 Grey, Nimbus grey , lightened with white.
No 2 Grey : Nimbus Grey, darken with Black
No 1 White, Titanium white, 1% Raw Umber
No 2 White: Titanium white. |
TAKE YOUR TIME CARVING, WHEN YOU
GET ONE FINISHED, YOU'LL JUST WANT TO DO ANOTHER. HAVE FUN, THANKS, HUGH
PARKS |